Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. Guerlain Jicky In a fragrance, tea’s almost as refreshing as in a china cup. But perfume-wise, sugar’s star is in the ascendant in line with the boom in gourmand compositions, adding almost a touch of ‘booziness’. Perfumes are mixtures of essential oils or organic scent compounds and solvents. Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent Much was made, not long ago, of the discovery on a British beach of a whacking great lump of greyish-beige waxy material – which turned out to be worth thousands of pounds. Byredo La Tulipe Lancôme Hypnôse Senses Givenchy Xeryus Or as perfumer Julie Massé explains to The Perfume Society: 'An opulent sensation of green-leaf, or the hissing of hot, wet summer lawns - a strangely intense and yet cool floral. It’s collected from the stems in small drops (‘tears’). Diptyque L’Autre Now there’s an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too. Kai Kai. Miller Harris La Pluie Mandarin works nicely as long as you don’t mind its lack of commitment...'. Those of a certain age will be most familiar with edelweiss as the name of a song crooned by Christopher Plummer in the movie of The Sound of Music. Orange blossom can be used almost symbolically in fragrance, as well as for its bewitching scent:  over time, it’s come to represent purity, moral virtue and innocence, but fruitfulness and fertility, too. Here's what leather means to perfumer Andy Tauer, and how he uses it in his creations. CK One Shock for Her Today, no home herb garden’s complete without rosemary – which was once planted to repel witches. Kenzo Kenzo Amour Florale Crabtree & Evelyn Wisteria (Or rather, lots of members:  there are thousands of varieties of Malus domestica, a tree originating in Asia). Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Yummy, yummy rum:  wonderful in cocktails to drink, glorious in perfumes – an appetising ‘gourmand’ ingredient that pairs well with woods, adding complexity, sweetness and intrigue. (Some people think it smells like crushed ivy leaves. What it gives to fragrance, though, is a fresh, crisp, mouthwatering quality, reminiscent of biting into an apple itself. Over a hundred species of honeysuckle exist and among the most fragrant are the wild English honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) the Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) and Lonicera fragrantissima, which comes originally from China. Guerlain Tonka Impériale Versace Versace. Floris Tuberose Lancôme Trésor Calvin Klein. Strawberry can be lush, juicy, fruity-green and not overpoweringly ‘jammy’, at all. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb, Run your fingers over the leaves of a redcurrant bush, and you’ll get a ‘catty’ quality that’s distinctive, intriguing – but not to everyone’s taste. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Because violet petals are really reluctant to give up their scent naturally. L’Occitane en Provence Lavender Eau de Cologne Cartier Le Must de Cartier In traditional perfumery you’d use it to blend with the top and mid notes, you’d leave the mixture to macerate for months, to give it weight and depth, and to help keep the lighter molecules from flying away too rapidly. For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mâché boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and ‘love letters. bellflowers – offer up an essential oil which has been described as reminiscent of a ‘clear spring day’. (We know many people who say that tomato leaf is their first scent memory, perhaps introduced by a much-loved grandparent who wants to share its so-distinctive, scented furriness.) Mix bitter herbs, ripe apples and green leaves. 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